Does Skincare Expire? Shelf Life, the PAO Symbol and Storage

Short answer: Yes, skincare expires, but in the EU many products carry no printed expiry date. Look instead for the open-jar symbol with a number such as "12M": it tells you how many months the product stays in good condition once opened. A printed date or hourglass appears only on products expected to last 30 months or less.

Quick facts

• Open-jar symbol (PAO): the number of months a product can be used after you first open it, written as "6M", "12M" and so on.
• Hourglass or "best before end of": required when a product is expected to last 30 months or less from manufacture.
• Batch code: required on the packaging so a production run can be traced.
• Storage changes everything: heat, light, air and wet fingers shorten a product's life.
• Your senses outrank the label: a change in smell, colour or texture means stop.

What does the open-jar symbol on skincare mean?

It tells you how long a product stays in good condition after you first open it. The symbol is called the period after opening, or PAO. It looks like a small jar with its lid lifted, with a number and the letter M printed on or beside it. "12M" means twelve months from the day you first open the pack.

The manufacturer sets this period from stability and preservation testing, part of the safety assessment every cosmetic sold in the EU must have. Once a product is open, air, light, warmth and the microbes on your fingers start to work on it, and the formula is designed to hold up for that window only.

The clock starts when you open the product, not when you buy it. A simple habit helps: write the month you opened it on the pack with a permanent marker.

When does a cosmetic need a "best before" date?

Under EU rules, only when it is expected to last 30 months or less from manufacture. Article 19 of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 sets this out. Products in that group must show a date of minimum durability, introduced by the words "best used before the end of" or by an hourglass symbol.

Products expected to last longer than 30 months do not need a date at all. They carry the open-jar symbol instead. A few products need neither, for example single-use items or containers where the contents are not exposed to air, because the idea of a period after opening does not apply to them.

What do the symbols on a skincare label mean?

Each one answers a different question, and only two of them are about shelf life.

Symbol	Name	What it tells you
Open jar with "12M"	Period after opening (PAO)	Use within 12 months of first opening
Hourglass followed by a date	Date of minimum durability	Best used before the end of that month, if stored properly
Hand pointing at an open book	Refer to enclosed information	Read the leaflet, tag or outer carton for warnings that did not fit on the pack
℮ next to the volume	Estimated sign	The fill quantity follows EU average-quantity rules; it says nothing about shelf life
Short code of letters and numbers	Batch or lot number	Lets the maker trace the production run if there is ever a question

Many of our products give the volume with the ℮ sign, for example "30 ml ℮". For other questions about our products, our FAQ is a good place to start.

How can you tell if a product has gone off?

Trust a change you can see, smell or feel. A product that has turned will usually tell you before any date does.

• Smell: sour, musty or sharp where it used to be neutral or pleasant. Plant oils that have oxidised often smell stale, like old nuts or crayons.
• Colour: noticeably darker or patchy. Vitamin C serums in general can darken as the vitamin C reacts with air.
• Texture: a cream that has separated into oil and water, turned grainy or thin, or a gel that has gone cloudy or stringy.
• Visible spots: any fuzzy or coloured spots on the surface or around the rim. Throw it away.
• On your skin: stinging or redness from a product that never did that before.

Which skincare products expire faster?

Products that contain water, react with air or are touched by fingers age fastest after opening.

Product type	Why it ages	What to watch for
Water-based serums and gels	Water supports microbes once the preservative system is overwhelmed	Cloudiness, a changed smell
Vitamin C serums	Vitamin C reacts with air and light	Darker colour, a metallic or sharp smell
Face and body oils	Plant oils slowly oxidise	A stale, crayon-like smell
Creams in open jars	Fingers bring in water and microbes every day	Separation, spots, a sour smell
Eye products	Used close to the eyes, where contamination matters most	Replace on schedule, even if they look fine
Sunscreen	Protection depends on the formula staying intact	Never use it past its date

Two examples from our own range. The Vitamin C Brightening Serum is a morning serum, so keep the cap closed between uses and the bottle out of direct sunlight, as you would with any vitamin C formula. The Omega 6-9 Glowing Skin Body Oil is a blend of plant oils, so the smell test applies: if it starts to smell stale instead of its usual cardamom, rosemary and galbanum notes, replace it. We do not quote a single shelf-life figure here because the symbol on each pack is the one that applies.

How should you store skincare so it lasts?

Keep it closed, cool, dry and out of the light, and touch it as little as possible.

1. Close caps and pumps straight after use. Air is the slowest but steadiest enemy.
2. Keep it out of the sun and away from radiators, windowsills and hot cars.
3. Think twice about the bathroom. Steam and daily temperature swings age products faster. A bedroom shelf or cupboard is kinder.
4. Use clean, dry hands. With jars, a small spatula is better than fingers.
5. Never add water to a product to stretch it, and never pour a product back into its bottle.
6. Skip the fridge unless the label asks for it. Some textures separate in the cold.

Is it dangerous to use expired skincare?

Usually the result is a product that simply does less, or irritates, but contamination can cause real problems, especially near the eyes. Ingredients such as vitamin C lose their effect as they break down, and preservatives can weaken over time. If a product causes swelling, a rash or eye discomfort, stop using it and see a doctor.

Common mistakes

• Counting from the day you bought it. The PAO starts when you first open the pack.
• Reading the PAO as a cliff edge. It is a guide based on normal storage. A serum kept on a sunny windowsill may turn well before its month.
• Saving a product "for best". Opened products age whether you use them or not.
• Ignoring your nose because the date is fine. A changed smell wins.

What the PAO symbol won't tell you

The open-jar symbol does not guarantee a product performs exactly as it did on day one until the last day. It assumes the product was closed, kept cool and used with clean hands, and it cannot tell you whether a product suits your skin. For the wider picture, browse our face care collection with the label in mind.

Frequently asked questions

Does skincare expire if it is unopened?

Yes, slowly. A product without a printed date is expected to last more than 30 months unopened when stored properly. After that, quality can decline even if the seal is intact, so do not keep unopened products for years.

What does 12M mean on skincare?

It means the product should be used within 12 months of first opening. The number sits on or next to the open-jar symbol. Other common periods are 6M, 9M and 24M.

Can I use skincare after the PAO date has passed?

We would not. The product may still look normal, but its preservatives and active ingredients were only tested for that window. If it has also changed in smell, colour or texture, throw it away.

Should I keep skincare in the fridge?

Only if the label tells you to. A cool, dark cupboard works for most products. Some formulas separate or thicken in the cold, which can make them harder to use.

Where is the batch code and why does it matter?

It is printed on the pack or the outer carton, often near the base. It lets the maker trace the exact production run. Keep the carton until you finish a product in case you ever need to ask about it.

Last reviewed: October 2026.